Genocide and a day in Kigali Rwanda 10/19/18
I was up early, 4:30. It looked like there was sun outside our window but we were tricked. Wifi in the room so not a big deal. We managed to stay in the room until 6:30 looking for our free breakfast. We were the first ones up, the staff started to waken. The Americans need their coffee and Africa tea (milk with tea, kinda like masala or chai)! We also had mango juice and eggs, toast, and steamed zucchini. Not bad. The staff is very attentive and friendly.
As soon as we walked out of the hotel, Andy grabbed a boda boda, who then called over his buddy, to take us to the genocide memorial. It was a lovely morning, not much traffic out yet, and the ride was nice and easy (and only $3 total).
The memorial opened at 8, we stayed for 2 hours and paid a donation. The memorial is fantastic. We first watched a short film on the survivors who talked about how they lost all their family. The museum walked us through the history of Rwanda, starting when Germany first colonized, Belgium starting the segregation, the early mistreatment of Tutsi's, the genocide, aftermath, and some of the other genocides that have occurred in the world. There were videos of survivors talking about how their neighbors turned on them. How they survived and saw their families massacred. It was all incredibly hard to read. The UN did nothing and they were warned. A company in France sold all the guns to the Hutu leader. The world turned their back and when they did help, it was too late. Reading about how the Hutu leader used fear and separation tactics, along with the extremist media, to enable hatred, rang a familiar bell of what #45 is doing to our country. How could this country move past the killings? How could those who lost their whole family live next to those who killed? The survivors talked about how anger and retaliation will do nothing to end the violence, so they accept and forgive. We can't help but wonder what everyone's story is when we walk around town. The avg age in this town is young- only 19!!! Thats nuts!!!
After the sobering morning, we went across town on the boda bodas again, to the Kimironko market. It's an indoor market with super narrow walkways which are easy to get lost in. We first hit the fabric section where I had a skirt made for $15 and a shirt for $12 (including the fabric). I probably could have talked them down but for that price? Whatever. People we obviously trying to sell us goods. They weren't that much of a bother, usually a 'no thank you' would do. Waiting for my clothes to be sewn, we walk around the food section and out on the streets. It was almost noon and we had time to spare so we went into one of the bar shacks for a quick beer. We sat with the locals, they didn't pay us too much attention, happy to serve some tourists alcohol, I'm sure they don't get too many in this small shack. The beers cost us $1 and it was time to head back to the market. The clothing section had tons of old used t-shirt so Andy started searching. Once Andy showed interest people came out of the woodwork. Everyone starting bringing shirts over for him to view to which he took a quick look and said yes or no. We found some awesome shirts! The Rolling Stones, Def Leppard, DARE, etc. for the bargain price of $3 each. The locals were laughing and having fun, we all were. It was a great afternoon.
Finally we were hungry as it was 1:30 so we took the boda bodas to another part of town for lunch. They dropped us off so we could look around the area, but we were hungry so we walked 30 min to the other side of the hill to the New Cactus. Unfortunately the tropical rainstorm hit us during the last 5 min of the walk, but that was enough to drench our pants and shoes. We were totally soaked, but the amazing lunch made up for it!! Beer/wine, croquets, mushroom soup, smoked salmon pizza, and a very yummy salad- the food was soooo good!! It was a crazy downpour outside along with a thunder/lightning storm. We were inside completely enjoying our long-awaited food.
We took a cab back to the hotel as it was still raining and we were soaked. A nap, then Andy said we were getting up for dinner. We walked to the boda bodas and showed them the Hut on Google maps. It didn't help much. We were struggling to communicate when a nice young man offered to help us. We were on our way. The restaurant was really good! I had a delish salad, money pockets, and Andy had the pork ribs (there will be no pork to be had in Zanzibar tomorrow as it's mostly Muslim). Mmmmmm. So happy to have different food, and not be terrified of eating lettuce.
Kigali is amazing. It's clean, so clean I didn't see ANY trash, there are people cleaning the roadways everywhere. The people are amazing as well, in all of Rwanda. So friendly, I never thought people were wanting something from me. I felt very safe, even walking at night (no alleys though). Also the food is amazing (and cheap)! We'll definitely be back.
As soon as we walked out of the hotel, Andy grabbed a boda boda, who then called over his buddy, to take us to the genocide memorial. It was a lovely morning, not much traffic out yet, and the ride was nice and easy (and only $3 total).
The memorial opened at 8, we stayed for 2 hours and paid a donation. The memorial is fantastic. We first watched a short film on the survivors who talked about how they lost all their family. The museum walked us through the history of Rwanda, starting when Germany first colonized, Belgium starting the segregation, the early mistreatment of Tutsi's, the genocide, aftermath, and some of the other genocides that have occurred in the world. There were videos of survivors talking about how their neighbors turned on them. How they survived and saw their families massacred. It was all incredibly hard to read. The UN did nothing and they were warned. A company in France sold all the guns to the Hutu leader. The world turned their back and when they did help, it was too late. Reading about how the Hutu leader used fear and separation tactics, along with the extremist media, to enable hatred, rang a familiar bell of what #45 is doing to our country. How could this country move past the killings? How could those who lost their whole family live next to those who killed? The survivors talked about how anger and retaliation will do nothing to end the violence, so they accept and forgive. We can't help but wonder what everyone's story is when we walk around town. The avg age in this town is young- only 19!!! Thats nuts!!!
After the sobering morning, we went across town on the boda bodas again, to the Kimironko market. It's an indoor market with super narrow walkways which are easy to get lost in. We first hit the fabric section where I had a skirt made for $15 and a shirt for $12 (including the fabric). I probably could have talked them down but for that price? Whatever. People we obviously trying to sell us goods. They weren't that much of a bother, usually a 'no thank you' would do. Waiting for my clothes to be sewn, we walk around the food section and out on the streets. It was almost noon and we had time to spare so we went into one of the bar shacks for a quick beer. We sat with the locals, they didn't pay us too much attention, happy to serve some tourists alcohol, I'm sure they don't get too many in this small shack. The beers cost us $1 and it was time to head back to the market. The clothing section had tons of old used t-shirt so Andy started searching. Once Andy showed interest people came out of the woodwork. Everyone starting bringing shirts over for him to view to which he took a quick look and said yes or no. We found some awesome shirts! The Rolling Stones, Def Leppard, DARE, etc. for the bargain price of $3 each. The locals were laughing and having fun, we all were. It was a great afternoon.
Finally we were hungry as it was 1:30 so we took the boda bodas to another part of town for lunch. They dropped us off so we could look around the area, but we were hungry so we walked 30 min to the other side of the hill to the New Cactus. Unfortunately the tropical rainstorm hit us during the last 5 min of the walk, but that was enough to drench our pants and shoes. We were totally soaked, but the amazing lunch made up for it!! Beer/wine, croquets, mushroom soup, smoked salmon pizza, and a very yummy salad- the food was soooo good!! It was a crazy downpour outside along with a thunder/lightning storm. We were inside completely enjoying our long-awaited food. 
We took a cab back to the hotel as it was still raining and we were soaked. A nap, then Andy said we were getting up for dinner. We walked to the boda bodas and showed them the Hut on Google maps. It didn't help much. We were struggling to communicate when a nice young man offered to help us. We were on our way. The restaurant was really good! I had a delish salad, money pockets, and Andy had the pork ribs (there will be no pork to be had in Zanzibar tomorrow as it's mostly Muslim). Mmmmmm. So happy to have different food, and not be terrified of eating lettuce.
Kigali is amazing. It's clean, so clean I didn't see ANY trash, there are people cleaning the roadways everywhere. The people are amazing as well, in all of Rwanda. So friendly, I never thought people were wanting something from me. I felt very safe, even walking at night (no alleys though). Also the food is amazing (and cheap)! We'll definitely be back.