I'm gonna need some fresh air 11/30
We slept for 13 hours, woke up at 4am and felt like champs. Andy needed some coffee so he went downstairs for hot water. He returns w/ a tea set and we head to the rooftop w our Counter Culture coffee and grind some of our own (see what you've created Anthony/Kristina?). The smell of fireplace is strong w/in our room. The smell of the orange carnations is strong everywhere at this time of day.
We took a walk at 7 waiting for the hostel dude to print our Tibet permits and hoping to find food to no avail. Although people are up and at em by 6, no stores until 8 or 9. We give up on the prints and head to the China Embassy to get our Tibet visa after stopping for breakfast. Breakfast was a huge meal of Indian food and an omelette (it was hard to eat after I pulled the hair from it but dammit I did it).
We made it to the Embassy at 9:45 and Andy had to make an emergency stop at the bathroom. While I was waiting on the sidewalk, I saw two motorcycles collide. Not too bad, the drivers were up and walking. When we finally got inside, they told us we had to go to an agency for the group visa. When we went to the agency, they told us to go down the street. It was a shady building, 3rd floor, not much else going on, but yeah we'll leave our visas w you. We opted for expedited service so we could get them the next day. Next was the Tourism Board for the Annapurna Circiut passes. No one there so it was easy. I love how rules are lax in these countries. Yes you need to have your passport for the pass, but it's ok if you don't.
We walked to Durbar Square to see temples. The intricate details around the wooden doors and windows that held up over these hundred of years were amazing. Man the earthquake did a number on them. Sidewalks were shifted and torn up, some wooden pieces were gathered in an attempt to make the mess organized, but little was being done. Some walls were curving and being held up by small wooden beams w rebar staked in the ground, some temples were completely collapsed. At this pace it's going to take them a very long time to rebuild. Not many tourists.
On our way to Harati Devi temple we saw a lot of old blood stains on the ground, probably from bike accidents. We crossed a river and it was pretty disgusting. The smells of the city were getting to me and my scarf didn't help. Smog, nasty water, deisel, poop, then a hint of food here and there. I was def not hungry. Andy navigated and I followed. Its it easy to navigate these streets, especially when there are limited street names.
We walked up all the steps to the top of the hill to the temple and passed all the monkeys while trying to avoid the dog/monkey fights on the stairs. There were 5 or so eagles hovering around, waiting for a baby monkey to grab. There were amazing views of the city from the top. Tens of prayer flags were traversing the valley between the temples. It was beautiful. A quick tour and I was ready to head back. I needed a shower and had enough of the city for one day.
The shower was the best thing that's happened in several days (it's the only one I've taken since we left) and it was worth it. Now I can do dinner. We walked back to Thamel and found Thamel House which a coworker recommended. We got the fixed meal, me veg and he not veg, and shared. It was a ton of food and delish. I didn't do much damage, I know I can do better. Maybe it's all the spices or the smells of the city that I need to get used to. Plus it's 6 and past our bedtime. Crossing the street at night is interesting. Just when we think we've got it down, we either stop traffic or end up running across. We hit the hay at 8. Looks like we've adjusted!
26k steps; 11 miles; 54 floors