A flight u-turn in Skardu valley, a stomach virus, and kittens

I woke up naturally at 2 which wasn’t an issue since we set the alarm to catch the 6am flight to Skardu. Breakfast was Pakistani mixed tea and sweets which didn’t go down too easily. Through the gate easily and we boarded the full flight to Skardu where they speak Balti. The plane wasn’t a puddle jumped that I expected. It was probably 150 seats to which I thought, how is this thing going to land between the mountains? Some finger sandwiches were served on our 45 min flight. It was mostly cloudy so we couldn’t see the mountains we fly between. Soon enough we were landing. We circled the landing strip and as we flew over it once more, the pilot took a sharp right to make a sharp left u-turn between the mountains. People started clapping after the turn and before he landed, so you know that was the risky part. Now I understand why that flight is canceled in bad weather.

Manzoor, the tour company owner, met us at the airport. He brought us a traditional hat with a feather, scarf, and a ha (?- like a lai) to take our celebratory welcome picture much to Kristen’s shagrin. A short drive through town and we reached the Mountain Lodge hotel on the side of the mountain overlooking Skardu and the valley, very lovely up here. Then we ate another breakfast of fried eggs and naan and bread (yay!) and more Pakistani tea (looks like Thai tea but not sweet). There were guys who looked Nepalese eating breakfast as well and they had just summited K2. Makes our like hike see like a walk in the park. Their sun-kissed faces with the sunglass tan lines showed their recent adventure. I’ll try to find out their names later. They just give off the bad ass vibes. One dude summited K2 twice in 24 hours! The weather is so much cooler up here and away from the craziness of the city. I can’t wait to get farther into the mountains.

After lunch we went to see the local reservoir at almost 9k, Satpara Lake. It was large and a so blue against the brown mountains. The rain clouds were approaching so we headed to see the Buddha rock that was carved in the 9th century. Our driver drove like a mad man down the mountain. I couldn’t look as I don’t need to see my death coming. The drive to Askole will be interesting. Next stop was the Kharpocho (royal) fort that was established in the 18th century. For the fort we hiked up which was good to get the legs moving, I really haven’t moved my body in 3 days. The first bit was tough, it got me a bit nervous for the remaining 10k in altitude we are about to conquer. Andy of course had no issues almost running up, and in his flip flops naturally. It was hot now that the sun was out. After I worked out my legs, the rest of the short hike up wasn’t that bad, I just need to get back to muscle memory. The old man who I suppose watches the fort was praying so we waited to get in free for locals and charges for tourists of course (less than $1!). Inside the fort was a great view of the valley. We hiked up for more views. Azam suggested we get a pic and motioned for us to stay on the roof of a room. Andy had previously noted the hole very close to where we were standing. Andy took one step on the roof and it sagged. We will not be doing that! That was a close call. Totally safe.

We went into town to look for some bubbly water, since I know I haven’t been drinking as much as I need. When trying to communicate soda water or water with bubbles, a store owner asked “sprudel wasser?”, which is what it’s called in German. Clearly the Germans have been here and need hydration too. No dice. We did, however, find kittens! Kristen found the first one. He was a small beautiful caramel kitty. This was the first animal to get some love. The locals were confused, starting at us as they walked by. My guess is they were thinking “what is this woman doing here, and why she petting this filthy creature?” He was purring so hard and kept following her. We heard him meowing from across the street. 💔Then I saw the tabby that reminded me of my Paka. She clearly had never been pet by anyone and was digging the rubs so hard I had to go in with two hands. Sweet babies. My heart was breaking and we had to go. She followed me to the car. I’m sure she’s living her best life now

Back to the hotel. Kristen had to go to the hospital as no doctors work in Sunday and she was super ill. We aren’t high enough for altitude sickness and she didn’t really eat today to get something food borne. The girls make it back around 10 and they said they have a lot to tell us as the hospital is run by the government. I can’t imagine but I look forward to the story tomorrow.

Andy and I had kebabs and fried rice, milk tea and mint tea. We watched the sunset from the perfectly situated hotel and listened to the calls to prayer echo across the valley. Tonight, there were 3 calls in less than 2 hours, which was odd as there are 5 a day. Turns out eat sect has their own times for the calls, albeit very close to each other.