Danum Valley- the land of untouched nature (incl leeches)
After leaving the Kinabatangan River, we took a 2.5-hour van ride to a small town called Latah Datum, where we transferred to a Land Cruiser that took us to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Danum Valley is one of the last remaining virgin forests in Sabah, and with only two accommodation options in the valley, our only available reservation was for a deluxe room— which was amazing! The room more than lived up to its name. It came with an outdoor shower, an infinity cold tub on the deck, and stunning views of the river and rainforest. As soon as we arrived, we had lunch, which was a mix of local cuisine and Western dishes, with plenty of fruit. With the misty rain setting the perfect mood, we immediately jumped into the cold tub and soaked in the peaceful atmosphere- appreciating the deer-like animals in the field.
In the afternoon, we went on a hike with another couple from the UK. They had their leech socks on, but I figured I’d risk it, having left mine in the room since we hadn’t had any leech issues by the river. At the start of the hike, we got lucky and spotted two orangutans sitting in the trees, completely unbothered by our presence. The plants and insects here are like something out of a prehistoric movie—alien and dinosaur-like. We saw Kingfishers, ginormous seed pods, flowers that look like they have teeth. The jungle trails around the lodge are plenty, so we didn’t have to venture far to feel fully immersed in the rainforest. Hiking through the jungle can be tough to spot anything in the thick vegetation, so we found ourselves scanning for anything moving in the trees.
The night drive that followed was enjoyable although there was sort of a go-cart train. We spotted a red flying squirrel, a civet, frogs, and a pitta bird peacefully sleeping in the trees. After a restful night’s sleep in our comfy room (along with the leaf jumper bug), we woke up early for a morning walk, followed by breakfast. The late morning hike was an adventure—we climbed 1,000 feet in the midday heat, slipping through muddy trails. Along the way, we stopped at a native burial site, which consisted of an exposed rock where bones and a 100-year-old ironwood coffin had been found. Once we reached the viewpoint, all the effort felt worth it as we were treated to breathtaking views of the resort and river valley below. Overlooking the lush canopy, we were completely drenched in sweat, but the scenery made it all worthwhile.
Eager for some relief from the heat, we practically raced back down the trail to reach the natural “jacuzzi”—a watering hole by a waterfall. We quickly changed into our bathing suits and dove into the cool, refreshing water. It wasn’t long before we noticed little fish nibbling at our toes. While they left us alone in the deeper water, we were too blissed out to care. The best part? We had the entire place to ourselves—no tourists, no crowds, just us and the mountain.
After a break for lunch, it was time for another hike. As we walked along the trail, I noticed a small, worm-like thing on my sock. I asked the guide, “What’s this?” He calmly replied, “Oh, that’s a leech.” Everyone in our group took turns taking pictures of it, while I, not too concerned since it hadn’t reached my skin, asked the guide to remove it. That calm was short-lived when I spotted another leech crawling up Andy’s pants. That was the moment I decided it was time to put on the leech socks, despite the heat. I wasn’t about to sit on the forest floor to do it either—no way I was touching more of the jungle than necessary. As I put them on, I found another leech on my shoe, and one on my finger. I nearly lost it! Suddenly, I was not having fun anymore. Everyone in our group ended up with leeches. Andy had one stuck to his side and another that had been feasting just above his sock for a while. Getting it off was a challenge, and the spot bled for quite a bit. The circle scab was proof of the battle.
After dealing with the leeches, we were more than ready for the canopy walk. Up in the trees, away from the leeches, seemed like a much better place to be. Dark clouds started rolling in, and thunder rumbled in the distance, but against our better judgment, we decided to go ahead with the canopy walk anyway. Despite the ominous weather, the walk was beautiful. Being that high up among the towering trees was a surreal experience, although the mist and fading light made bird-spotting a challenge. This wasn’t my best feeling as I’ve grown a bit scared of heights, but I’ll walk slowly and not look down. As long as the walk doesn’t sway too much…
By the end of the day, we had hiked about 10 miles through the jungle. I was exhausted. For the night hike, we opted to stay along the road to avoid any more encounters with leeches. We spotted frogs, an owl, a giant stick insect (thanks to Andy), a creepy centipede, a massive black scorpion, and a huntsman spider, which, while terrifying, is less dangerous than it looks. Then the rain came down—hard. It poured for hours, and though we were a bit concerned, we reminded ourselves that this is the rainforest; heavy rain is just part of life here.
The next morning, we went on one last walk and saw gibbons high up in the canopy—they never come down to the forest floor. We also saw red leaf monkeys (languers) and a broadbill. Mostly, though, we just watched the monkeys play and move effortlessly through the trees.
After lunch, it was time to check out of this incredible location. What a fantastic experience—the lodge, the hikes, and the wildlife all exceeded our expectations. Next stop: Seoul, South Korea!
