Mother nature is my god (18 km today, 28 HTD)12/23
More about the title in a min. The refugios are for the lameos, or at least that's what I'm saying today after one of the best nights sleep! The mattresses stayed full, our sleeping bags were so warm and the wind gave a slight chill that made the cocoon that was my bed even better. The alarm went off at 4 and I didn't hear it. It went off at 6 and I shook Andy. Since he didn't wake I passed out again quickly. We finally got up at 7 w all the other campers. So much for everyone getting up early, or maybe that is early for the rest of the world compared to my 5. I can do 7.
Needless to say we didn't make it closer to Glacier Grey so the lookout will suffice. I later heard that the path was closed due to the wind anyways. I knew we had a long day ahead of us. Andy warmed up the water for coffee and granola w bananas and milk. While he was out, I was trying to figure out what was up w my jacket. Yesterday I was cursing Mountain Hardwear for not having clips to tighten the hood straps so I had to hold them tight in the rain. How dumb can they be? Well it was user error of course. They are smart, us not so much. Our jackets have a hidden clasp to hold the hood tight. Genius! It wasn't raining so we ate in the field. The sky was pretty clear and we could see the Cerro Paine Grande towering above us. Such an amazing morning. We were stoked to get on the trail so we quickly packed up and were off. The Stanford crew took a long time to get to the campground yesterday, they were going to be in a world of pain today I imagined.
We set out at 8:50 and hiked back the way we came yesterday but there was no rain, what a difference it was. We saw the flowers, the glaciers and mountains. The lake was a gerogeous blue and the sun came out for a bit making the colors brighter. Hiking back south, the wind was at our back. Hiking up and down the rocks was so much easier without the rain. At one point there was a group of 15 in front of me walking hella slow. I waited to pass then ran through a field when I had my chance but didn't get to pass the last 4. When I had my chance I sprinted past the last of them. Later when I stopped to put my rain pants on, I noticed I was missing a glove. Dammit!! Then the leader of the group of 15 walked past me and I noticed he had my glove. I ran up to him and he gave it to me and said "no need to run on this trail". No shit, but who wants a ton of slow asses in front of them? Dick. Before we knew it we were back at Campamento Paine Grande which took just over 3 hours.
Instead of stopping for lunch we headed out east for Campamento Italiano which was going to be another 2.5 hours. The wind started to pick up and we could see the rain line off the mountain hitting the path we were going to walk on. The rain cleared but the sky said it could dump on us at any moment. The sun was shinning and it was magical look up at Punta Bariloche. My feet were tired but I felt fantastic. This path was so much more enjoyable. Less people, more area to enjoy the view. We stopped for lunch to enjoy the view but it didn't last long. It gets pretty cold when you're not moving. This so one of the windiest parts of the hike (at least says the map).
Passing Lago Sköttsberg was nuts. The wind would kick so hard it would create little clouds of water that would rise up from the lake. We got to enjoy the trees as well. Some are white and black, it looks like a fire hit them but I think it's just their defense in this intense area. When the wind blows through it sounds like birds chirping. We saw a bird squat down when the wind picked up so it wouldn't be taken away. They know how to deal. At one point as we were walking by the lake, the wind howled so hard it sounded like a tornado. It's amazing what this vegetation can withstand. I can't imagine what's it's like in the winter.
I feel the happiest w Mother Nature. What other god do you need? One that's real, gives you energy and happiness when you give her respect, or will physically bring the wrath down on you when you don't take care of her or you take her for granted. Mather nature is real, no debate about that. Plus she's happy when you are out enjoying her, not sitting on your ass in a building and giving $$.
We passed the 2km left to the campsite marker and my feet were hurting so much, but I knew I had to press on and not stop. I'm not going to lie, I was in a world of pain. Luckily my upper heals were blister free, but I had small blisters on the bottom of my heals and the bottoms of my feet were screaming from walking over rocks all day. I was done. At least the path was relatively flat. We crossed a rickety bride to get to the camp and the sign said "no more than two people on the bridge". Do they mean no more than two Chileans or Americans? Very different. Andy decided to go w me, here we go. The bridge was pretty scary and it crossed a rushing river w intense rapids. I love the Chileans and all, but we are in Chile and this bridge wouldn't fly w American standards. That's why traveling is so interesting. You get to do shit you would never do in the US, something as simple as crossing a bridge. We got to Campamento Italiano around 3 which is between two steep mountains. This is Chile where they have bad earthquakes right? Oh fuck why did I think about that? There's no refugio around so the area is very peaceful. Another benefit about camping is that it's free at some sites and they are closer to the vista point than the refugios.
We immediately put up our tent. I knew I had to do everything now because not much going to happen when I was going to sit. Andy heated up water for some bacon cheddar mashed potatoes (not sure Andy knows they are vegan) and they were delicious! These hiking meals are the best things that have been created. We ate, Andy decided to go take a disco nap at 4 and I guess I'll soon follow. I won't be walking this evening and I haven't peed all day. Ugh. I'll hold it. I can't walk right now.