The hikes just keep getting better (15km today 43 HTD) 12/24

Andy was up at 430, me 6. Andy said he saw the sun rise 5 times due to the way the sun hit the clouds different times. I slep like shit. The wind didn't hit us so much in the Beech trees, but the sound of the tops of the trees in the wind sounded like a tidal wave about to hit us. I wore one earplug so I could hear the alarm in the am. It's amazing how strong the trees are to withstand the wind. I also had three wonderful bug bites on the front of my neck. How the hell does shit like that happen? I was sleeping in a closed tent all night!

Andy made breakfast and coffee while I was waking up. We ate in the other side of the river, over the two bridges. It was an amazing morning, no signs of rain, just the wind rushing down the valley. We quickly got ready for the hike and I tried to fix my blisters w mole skin and duct tape. I knew I'd be in a world of hurt if it didn't work, this was day 3 after all. 

The hike up the mountain was beautiful and we got a good start at 7. We walked along the rushing river, hiked up trickling streams, across treeless land where the wind would knock you down if you didn't put your whole body into the wind, then finally up a steep grade. The last km was closed, probably due to the wind. It didn't matter much, the view from the top was spectacular. We were in a bowl surrounded by jagged tooth mountains w glaciers on them. The sun was out and shinning bright. You had to sit low on the rock so you wouldn't blow off trying to catch the best picture. Words and pictures can't describe the beauty and I could understand why Patagonia gets such wonderful references. 


We were up there so early, everyone I met on the way down kept asking how much longer they had to go. I stopped for a bit on the way down to take it all in. Since we stayed at the campgrounds we started on the trail to Británico, others starting from the refugios had at least an hour to two to get on the trail. Once we got back at camp we packed, shoved some snacks in our face and took off for Cuernos at 12:30. This time I had two socks on since my first solution didn't work. This one has to work. 

The day just kept getting better. The sun was still shining so I hiked without my jacket since I get so freaking hot. We only encountered a few people on the trail, one of the benefits of getting on it so early I imagine. We hiked up a bit then down and down onto private land were we could see Lake Pehoé, the same lake where we took the catamaran. The lake was so blue from the aerated water from the glaciers. The lake against the snow covered mountains w the sun out blew my mind. A picture could never do this justice. We walked along a stone beach next to the lake and sat for a bit to take it all in. Then the wind started blowing, hard. We ducked and tucked our heads in whenever the water from the wind on the lake was going to hit us. The clouds looked like spaceships, like a tower of flat spheres stacked in too of each other. Still no signs of rain. How can we be this lucky?

Just a short walk to Los Cuernos. I paid the 15k for the campsite and we quickly found a spot on a wooden platform higher up on the hill. The wind ws kicking so hard. You could hear it coming like a tornado, then when it would hit us we would hold everything down. We set up the tent, Andy tied down the base of the tent to the O rings in the platform. I guess we'll see how it holds up. Then Andy realized we wouldn't sleep a bit if we kept our tent up here as we saw 4 tent blow into pieces. Luckily he found a perfect place in the bushes to hide us a bit from the gnarly wind. We set up again and felt a lot of confidence in our new area. Shower time. I've been wearing the same clothes for 3 days and honestly I was planning on wearing them for 2 more. Ok I'll succumb to a shower. 

Time for more cervesas after the wonderful long day. The sun was still shining bright and people we gathered at the refugio in the deck to enjoy the end of their hike. We met up w the dude from Chicago I met on the bus coming here. We chatted and ducked when the powerful wind would blow by. You could see the water from the lake in huge distance in the air, then you knew we'd get hit in the next 15 seconds. It's weird how it can be so breezy and not really warm, but it's not freezing either. Perfect hiking weather. This must be the 70 degrees is saw in the forecast. 

Andy made us dinner for spaghetti and meatballs (real meat this time) and added some Gouda cheese he brought. It was freakin delicious. Hopefully it will be an early night as we'll get some sleep. I guess we'll have to wait until the refugio people go in for dinner at 8 because they are loud as hell. Tomorrow we'll be refugio free and get to camp for free. I prefer to be w campers only, it's more quiet and peaceful. We have 8 hours of hiking ahead of us tomorrow. The last big pull. Apparently we need to get there at a decent time since good camping spots go fast. I can't imagine we'll be rain free tomorrow. Let's see how Mother Nature treats us. 
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Last full day in wonderland (12km today, 55 HTD) 12/25

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Mother nature is my god (18 km today, 28 HTD)12/23